lundi 5 juin 2017

The Red Dress



Kim Adonizio's What do Women Want? homage in dress form...


I want a red dress. 
(...)
When I find it, I’ll pull that garment 
from its hanger like I’m choosing a body 
to carry me into this world, through 
the birth-cries and the love-cries too, 
and I’ll wear it like bones, like skin, 
it’ll be the goddamned 
dress they bury me in.


Made from matching garnet red Duchess satin silk, silk Georgette crêpe and silk Marocain crêpe dyed and woven in Belgium and based on Marcel Ostertag's Autumn/Winter 2015 Lava gown. Photographed in Blois amidst the historical town center's old stone.




image from www.spiegel.de
"Hier zeigen Designer ihre Skizzenbücher"

samedi 6 mai 2017

The Revolution Will Not Be Televised



Coupla things now that the great selfie extravaganza is over, H&M and friends have flung some boilerplate around and hijacked the conversation with dubious corporate greenwashing; and elected representatives are contemplating their pat replies... Don't give up, don't give in, don't satisfy yourself with corporate speechifying, keep questioning, keep badgering, keep finding out, keep learning, call bullshit out wherever it is encountered (can we talk about the elephant in the room here... "celebrity" sewing bloggers and fast crafting with Frankenfabric... ahem!), stay out of the mall, discover your fibershed, learn how to sew or knit or weave or mend, meet and support your local and domestic makers and growers, make your own colour, grow your own colour, know where the seeds came from, know the pH of your water, challenge what you have been taught is normal, convenient, clean and respectable, challenge the hegemony of fast (food, tech. fashion, love...), know that guilt can be a way forward - and yes, I know that's anathema on this hedonic treadmill we're on, value activities that can't be marketed, read! (knowledge is not a commodity, check out your local and university libraries), realize that things are the way they are now because dominant cultural conditions intentionally created and maintained the current set up squeezing out alternatives or making them appear unattractive, remember that the status quo is not the only possible state of affairs and that different, varied, fairer plans of action are underway!!! 


dimanche 9 avril 2017

Rigueur Ricaine



Silence radio côté couture depuis un moment mais je ne chôme pas pour autant. Mon temps a été accaparé par la confection d'un modèle Ralph Rucci (Vogue American Designer 1404). Pas question d'utiliser de la microfibre ou du thermocollant synthétiques : la robe ajustée et évasée a été faite dans un satin cuir en soie vintage Lanvin, doublée de pongé de soie, surpiquée au fil Gobelins d'Au ver à soie et l'ourlet, entoilée d'une fine bourre traditionelle américaine en coton bio. Le tissu est somptueux, charnu et tient bien sa forme. Le satin, joue avec la lumière à sa guise. Les multiples surpiqûres de l'ourlet et la légèreté de la bourre assurent l'évasement sans raideur du bas de la jupe.


Le designer américain, Ralph Rucci n'est pas vraiment très connu de tous bien qu'il ait réussi l'exploit d'être le deuxième américain seulement, après Mainbocher soixante ans avant lui, à être invité à montrer ses collections à Paris par la Chambre syndicale de la haute couture. Peintre et diplômé en philo de Temple University, Rucci se forme chez Halston ainsi que sous la tutelle d'un modéliste de chez Balenciaga. Galanos et lui se vouent un culte mutuel. Ses inspirations sont multiples - Cy Twombly, Francis Bacon, Louise Nevelson, le symbolisme japonais. Ses robes se trouvent, entre autres, dans les collections du Victoria and Albert Museum à Londres, du DeYoung à San Francisco, de l'Institut du costume du Metropolitan Museum of Art à New York, L'exactitude parfois austère, la perfection de la construction, le détail poussé jusqu'au vice mais jamais ostentatoire et souvent visible seulement de près, l'hyper-esthétisation, et la maîtrise totale du métier, évidente dans ses créations, le mettent dans une catégorie à part dans le paysage de la mode américaine éprise de confort négligé.


L'obsession quasi-constante de Rucci avec la coupe et les découpes et les lignes de couture se retrouve ici joliment illustrée dans cette robe issue de la collection de prêt-à-porter printemps 2013. Elle a été photographiée dans le quartier historique d'Inglewood à Calgary, devant une ancienne pension pour chevaux aujourd'hui centenaire, connue localement sous le sobriquet, "la grange blanche" pour la distinguer d'une consoeur de couleur rouge à quelques encâblures plus loin. Un rare example de grange avec un toit à deux pentes à avoir survécu aux boules de démolition et à l'avidité des promoteurs immobiliers. Une bonne raison de faire la fête !



Et si vous vous demandez si j'ai un crustacé sur la tête, la réponse est oui ! La crevette en question est l'oeuvre de Tami Bar-Lev, une modiste de Tel Aviv aux créations déicieusement saugrenues et fantasques. Sandales Santoni Rose Collection.












lundi 6 mars 2017


Ladies! On March 8th, we hit the patriarchy where it hurts! Please remember that striking is a RIGHT that was fought for and won by the historically disenfranchised and NOT a form of bourgeois entitlement or elitist privilege. Labour rights are critical to healthy economies and societies. As a Canadian, as a woman, as a sentient being, I am deeply ashamed of the tepid route taken by WM Canada which has winsomely glossed over the International Women's Day Strike and with it, true engagement in issues of women's labour, economic disparity and insecurity in favour of what is largely, a curated shopping list. Social activism is disruptive and inconvenient. Social activism does not espouse the status quo. Social activism often implies sacrifice and is sometimes messy. Social activism is not a privilege. It is a necessity borne out of a moral imperative when faced with an imminent threat. Our diverse and intersecting identities as women affect our social and economic existences differently. In spite of this or because of this, we all have a significant role to play and everyone’s involvement signifies an equal commitment to the day. Our solidarity shatters capitalist and patriarchal stipulations that people's lives have different value. So, if you can...

1. Refrain from paid and unpaid work, including emotional labour and caregiving.

2. Refrain from shopping in stores or online. Exceptions include supporting small, local businesses and women-owned businesses and businesses that support women. Boycott misogynists and companies using sexism. (#GrabYourWallet has a list of corporations best avoided... yes, you too Canada... here's looking at you Hudson's Bay...)

3. Wear red in solidarity with the strike.

4. Ask male allies to lean into caregiving and use the day to call out decision-makers at the workplace and in the government to extend equal pay and adequate paid family leave.

5. Attend rallies and marches, support local groups, and build community. Find out about labour rights in your part of the world, organize and stand up against workers' rights abuses.

6. Strike from calcified gender roles and stereotyped identities. Interrogate the systems that created them, the hierarchies and power structures that maintain them. Confuse expectations. Disidentify.

#IStrike in honour of all of the loving, fighting women that came before. #IStrikeFor all of my seen and unseen, paid and unpaid sisters and gender oppressed peoples, especially those most vulnerable who are unable to join the strike.

More info:
https://www.womenstrikeus.org/
https://www.womensmarch.com/womensday

#DayWithoutAWoman #InternationalWomensStrike #WomensMarch #endgenderviolence #endeconomicinequality #reproductivejustice #labourrights #lgbtqiarights #indigenousrights #socialprovisioning #antiracism #antiimperialism #feminism #environmentaljustice #civildisobedience #grèveinternationaledesfemmes